Surfers have taken to the ocean for centuries. Ancient Polynesian civilizations were surfing as far back as 2,000 BC, and there is evidence of wave riding in 12th-century Hawaii. Of course, back then, ...

There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

It’s something surfers, sailors, and coastal walkers have quietly noticed for centuries: ocean waves often seem to come in a repeating pattern, with every seventh wave standing out as bigger, stronger ...

Associate Professor of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology Rogue waves have captivated the attention of both seafarers and scientists for decades. These are giant, ...